JoistLedgerSpans, joists and footings straight from the code tables.

Decking for a 10 × 10 ft deck in ipe, straight layout

1 × 6 ipe boards
24× 10 ft
22 rows across 10 ft — 231 linear ft including 5% waste
Plan — boards across the joists10 ft10 ft22rows5.688″ repeatactual width + gap24 boards · 264 screws
Boards to buy24× 10 ft
Linear feet220 ft plus 5% waste231ft
Rows of decking10 ft ÷ 5.688″ repeat22rows
Board repeat5.5″ actual width + 0.1875″ gap — not the nominal size5.688in
Deck area10 × 10 ft100ft²
Joists crossedat 24″ o.c. over 10 ft6joists
Deck screwstwo per board-joist crossing — about 1 box of 350264screws
Layoutboards run perpendicular to the joists — least wastestraight
Butt joints10 ft boards cover the 10 ft run in one pieceNone needed
Deck width
10 ft
Deck length
10 ft
Board
ipe
Layout
straight
Joist spacing
24 in o.c.

Nominal width is not actual width

This is where board counts go wrong. A ipe board measures its real width, and with the gap it needs the repeat is 5.688″ — which is what actually decides the row count.

10 ft of deck at that repeat is 22 rows, and 24 boards once 5% waste for the straight layout is added.

Working from the nominal size undercounts by close to a tenth.

The gap is not optional in either direction

Treated lumber is sold wet and shrinks. Composite expands with heat. Gap too tight on composite and it buckles in July; gap too wide on wet treated lumber and by autumn you have gaps that swallow a phone.

Screws

264 — two at every board-joist crossing, across 6 joists. One screw per crossing lets the board cup and lift at the corner, and that is the single most common reason a deck looks tired after two summers.

Read the end grain

Lay boards bark-side up. A board cups away from its bark side, so bark-up sheds water off the crown rather than holding it in a trough.

Butt joints

Where the run exceeds a standard board length, stagger the joints so no two adjacent rows meet over the same joist — and double the joist under every joint. A butt joint on a single joist gives each board about ¾ inch of bearing, which is not enough for either board.

Notes

  • **Nominal width is not actual width.** A "1 ×" board measures 5.5″ across. With a 0.1875″ gap the repeat is 5.688″, which is what decides the row count — 22 rows here. Working from the nominal size undercounts by close to a tenth.
  • Very dense and very stable; pre-drill every fastener. The gap is not optional in either direction: too tight on composite and it buckles in July; too wide on wet treated lumber and you get gaps you can drop a phone through by autumn.
  • Straight layout, 5% waste — boards run perpendicular to the joists — least waste. This is the least wasteful way to lay a deck, and the fastest.
  • A 10 ft board covers the 10 ft run in one piece. Worth paying for: an unbroken board is stronger, drains better and looks like a deck rather than a repair.
  • Fasten with two screws at every board-joist crossing — 264 screws here. One screw lets the board cup and lift at the corner, and it is the single most common reason a deck looks tired after two summers.
  • Lay the boards bark-side up if you can read the end grain. A board cups away from the bark side, so bark-up sheds water off the crown instead of holding it in a trough.

Nearby sizes

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