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Decking for a 8 × 32 ft deck in ipe, straight layout

1 × 6 ipe boards
36× 20 ft
17 rows across 8 ft — 571 linear ft including 5% waste
Plan — boards across the joists8 ft32 ft17rows5.688″ repeatactual width + gap36 boards · 578 screws
Boards to buy36× 20 ft
Linear feet544 ft plus 5% waste571ft
Rows of decking8 ft ÷ 5.688″ repeat17rows
Board repeat5.5″ actual width + 0.1875″ gap — not the nominal size5.688in
Deck area8 × 32 ft256ft²
Joists crossedat 24″ o.c. over 32 ft17joists
Deck screwstwo per board-joist crossing — about 2 boxes of 350578screws
Layoutboards run perpendicular to the joists — least wastestraight
Butt joints32 ft run exceeds the 20 ft board — stagger the joints and land every one on a joistYes
Deck width
8 ft
Deck length
32 ft
Board
ipe
Layout
straight
Joist spacing
24 in o.c.

Nominal width is not actual width

This is where board counts go wrong. A ipe board measures its real width, and with the gap it needs the repeat is 5.688″ — which is what actually decides the row count.

8 ft of deck at that repeat is 17 rows, and 36 boards once 5% waste for the straight layout is added.

Working from the nominal size undercounts by close to a tenth.

The gap is not optional in either direction

Treated lumber is sold wet and shrinks. Composite expands with heat. Gap too tight on composite and it buckles in July; gap too wide on wet treated lumber and by autumn you have gaps that swallow a phone.

Screws

578 — two at every board-joist crossing, across 17 joists. One screw per crossing lets the board cup and lift at the corner, and that is the single most common reason a deck looks tired after two summers.

Read the end grain

Lay boards bark-side up. A board cups away from its bark side, so bark-up sheds water off the crown rather than holding it in a trough.

Butt joints

Where the run exceeds a standard board length, stagger the joints so no two adjacent rows meet over the same joist — and double the joist under every joint. A butt joint on a single joist gives each board about ¾ inch of bearing, which is not enough for either board.

Notes

  • **Nominal width is not actual width.** A "1 ×" board measures 5.5″ across. With a 0.1875″ gap the repeat is 5.688″, which is what decides the row count — 17 rows here. Working from the nominal size undercounts by close to a tenth.
  • Very dense and very stable; pre-drill every fastener. The gap is not optional in either direction: too tight on composite and it buckles in July; too wide on wet treated lumber and you get gaps you can drop a phone through by autumn.
  • Straight layout, 5% waste — boards run perpendicular to the joists — least waste. This is the least wasteful way to lay a deck, and the fastest.
  • The 32 ft run is longer than a 20 ft board, so there will be butt joints. Stagger them so no two adjacent rows join over the same joist, and double the joist under every joint — a butt joint on a single joist gives each board about ¾″ of bearing.
  • Fasten with two screws at every board-joist crossing — 578 screws here. One screw lets the board cup and lift at the corner, and it is the single most common reason a deck looks tired after two summers.
  • Lay the boards bark-side up if you can read the end grain. A board cups away from the bark side, so bark-up sheds water off the crown instead of holding it in a trough.

Nearby sizes

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Decking for a 8 × 32 ft Deck — ipe, straight — JoistLedger