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Decking for a 28 × 30 ft deck in 2 × 6 treated, straight layout

2 × 6 pressure-treated boards
126× 20 ft
60 rows across 28 ft — 1,890 linear ft including 5% waste
Plan — boards across the joists28 ft30 ft60rows5.625″ repeatactual width + gap126 boards · 3,720 screws
Boards to buy126× 20 ft
Linear feet1,800 ft plus 5% waste1,890ft
Rows of decking28 ft ÷ 5.625″ repeat60rows
Board repeat5.5″ actual width + 0.125″ gap — not the nominal size5.625in
Deck area28 × 30 ft840ft²
Joists crossedat 12″ o.c. over 30 ft31joists
Deck screwstwo per board-joist crossing — about 11 boxes of 3503,720screws
Layoutboards run perpendicular to the joists — least wastestraight
Butt joints30 ft run exceeds the 20 ft board — stagger the joints and land every one on a joistYes
Deck width
28 ft
Deck length
30 ft
Board
2 × 6 treated
Layout
straight
Joist spacing
12 in o.c.

Nominal width is not actual width

This is where board counts go wrong. A 2 × 6 treated board measures its real width, and with the gap it needs the repeat is 5.625″ — which is what actually decides the row count.

28 ft of deck at that repeat is 60 rows, and 126 boards once 5% waste for the straight layout is added.

Working from the nominal size undercounts by close to a tenth.

The gap is not optional in either direction

Treated lumber is sold wet and shrinks. Composite expands with heat. Gap too tight on composite and it buckles in July; gap too wide on wet treated lumber and by autumn you have gaps that swallow a phone.

Screws

3,720 — two at every board-joist crossing, across 31 joists. One screw per crossing lets the board cup and lift at the corner, and that is the single most common reason a deck looks tired after two summers.

Read the end grain

Lay boards bark-side up. A board cups away from its bark side, so bark-up sheds water off the crown rather than holding it in a trough.

Butt joints

Where the run exceeds a standard board length, stagger the joints so no two adjacent rows meet over the same joist — and double the joist under every joint. A butt joint on a single joist gives each board about ¾ inch of bearing, which is not enough for either board.

Notes

  • **Nominal width is not actual width.** A "2 ×" board measures 5.5″ across. With a 0.125″ gap the repeat is 5.625″, which is what decides the row count — 60 rows here. Working from the nominal size undercounts by close to a tenth.
  • Thicker and stiffer; spans further between joists. The gap is not optional in either direction: too tight on composite and it buckles in July; too wide on wet treated lumber and you get gaps you can drop a phone through by autumn.
  • Straight layout, 5% waste — boards run perpendicular to the joists — least waste. This is the least wasteful way to lay a deck, and the fastest.
  • The 30 ft run is longer than a 20 ft board, so there will be butt joints. Stagger them so no two adjacent rows join over the same joist, and double the joist under every joint — a butt joint on a single joist gives each board about ¾″ of bearing.
  • Fasten with two screws at every board-joist crossing — 3,720 screws here. One screw lets the board cup and lift at the corner, and it is the single most common reason a deck looks tired after two summers.
  • Lay the boards bark-side up if you can read the end grain. A board cups away from the bark side, so bark-up sheds water off the crown instead of holding it in a trough.

Nearby sizes

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